March 12, 2012
Why Do You Travel?

Few landscapes have inspired the author quite like the Picos de Europa of northern Spain. Photo courtesy of Flickr user jroblear.
Many years ago, my dad, living in the French Alps with my mom and us kids for a year, asked his own dad if he and my grandmother would come and visit us. My grandfather, who lived in Redding, California, a semi-rural city in the southern Cascades, answered, “Why would I go to France? There are still places in Shasta County I haven’t ever seen.” He was only half serious—but truly, he wasn’t a committed traveler. Like many others of his breed, he was content simply to stand in his own boots, anywhere.
But others of us can’t quit moving. Why? What is it we look for over mountains and across oceans? Why isn’t a cozy fire in the living room enough? What do we find, or hope to find, in distant locations that can’t be found at home, whether we live in New York City, in Anchorage, in Austin, or in the scrubby hills of Shasta County? To have a look into the heads and hearts of other travelers, we’re asking readers a few questions about traveling. The eight-question survey can be accessed here. In answering them, we hope you learn as much about yourself as we do about you. We plan to publish some responses in the May issue of Smithsonian magazine.
Here is a sampling of our questions, and a few of my own replies to get us started:
What historical time and place would you most like to visit in a time machine?
It would be very tempting to book a dinosaur safari somewhere in Pangaea, but I think the most emotionally stirring experience would be to stay right where I am, in San Francisco, and flash back 600 years, well before any Europeans had even glanced at the California coast. I would stalk through the sand dunes of my future hometown, identifying the hills that today I ride my bicycle up, the ponds in Golden Gate Park I walk my dog around, the oak forests of which today only a few trees remain and other features of geography now covered by asphalt. I would tread carefully, for there would be grizzly bears roaming this prenatal San Francisco. I’d go in mid-August, and on those long summer days I’d walk the shoreline of the virgin Bay and the Pacific Coast, especially at low tide, when the riches of the ocean, like clams and scallops and abalone, lie exposed to sight. And I expect that from the shore of modern-day Fort Point, under the modern-day Golden Gate Bridge, I would see salmon—huge, silvery Chinooks—splashing their way by the thousands into the largest estuary on the West Coast. And perhaps I would try to explain to the indigenous people I meet on the bank that someday these wonderful fish would almost all be gone. And could I bring with me in the time machine some basic cold-water snorkeling gear? Because the life to be found in our local kelp beds is awesome in 2012, but just imagine in the pre-Colombian era! The lingcod as big as railroad ties, the clouds of rockfish, the halibut stacked in the sand—and the great white sharks. And could I bring a beer in the time machine, too? No—not to drink just yet. Instead, I would hike up Twin Peaks and dig a hole deep in the sand and rock, and bury an Anchor Brewing Company “Old Foghorn” barleywine. Then, after a long look around at the wild, almost people-less San Francisco, I’d snap my fingers and go back to the future. And go find that well aged beer.
What animal would you most like to see in the wild?
A big cat, for sure—but which one? A tiger or a leopard would be a world-class thrill, but these creatures are seen almost strictly by paying tourists on guided safaris, which in parts of Africa and Asia are the only allowed means of enjoying the back country. So, I’d stay in the New World and venture somewhere into mountain lion country. It could be Idaho, Argentina or, heck, Shasta County. A symbol of the American wilderness, this animal—called puma, cougar and a barrage of other common names—is so elusive that no tourist service could ever come close to guaranteeing clients the sight of one, yet common enough that hikers, on their own and without a guide leading the way, may encounter one if they look hard enough, long enough and far enough. Veteran hikers know that it can take years to cross paths with a mountain lion. And if that lucky moment should ever arrive, I must savor it, envying the puma’s stealth, strength and beauty before it vanishes, probably forever, back into the woods.
What world festival would you most like to attend?
Wild mushroom festivals, beer festivals and salmon festivals come to mind, but I think I would enjoy none more than the World Durian Festival, in Chanthaburi, Thailand. Based in the world’s center of durian orchards and culinary appreciation, this festival lasts more than a week during the height of the durian harvest season, when the market stalls and street vendors are laden with heaps of this large, spiny and notoriously fragrant fruit. Certainly, there are people who would be unable to bear the potent potpourri produced by mountains of durians. You people might go to the annual August watermelon festival in Salmanovo, Bulgaria. But for others of us who are overcome with desire when that durian smell wafts our way, Chanthaburi in May must be paradise. The festival also features other local jungle fruits, street food, crafts and jewelers—and if, after a week of feasting on creamy durian, you still want more, linger on, because in Southeast Asia fresh durians can be found all year.
What travel destination is most overrated?
Beaches are so overrated. I can’t help but frown when I see yet another listing of the “world’s best beaches.” This almost invariably means crowds of people, colorful umbrellas, resorts, loud club music all day long and lots of sand—and every time a beach makes a list, still more people will go there that summer. For me? No beach, please—just a rocky shoreline of barnacles, kelp and tide pools.
Let us know your responses to these and other questions about travel
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Travel for me is discovery and at times endurance. Traveling on ones stomach, having an elk dinner in Alaska and vendo machine dining in Utah. From the deserts of the southwest to glaciers up north. Talking to strangers. Camping in OK surrounded by coyotes to being around bison in ND. Riding a motorcycle over the continental divide 25 times in one trip.
Why we travel by car(w/pull-trailer)
It is so much nicer a drive:
– more scenic, more of Nature, more relaxing
– less noise as all traffic is not passing at a fast clip
– more suprises and all kinds of opportunities
ex: 3 rainbows over Grand Canyon because we just
happened to hit a rainy day and almost didn’t go!
– chances to meet the locals and experience local ‘color’
Our great United States Of America is beyond belief and explanation when it comes to the uniqueness of beauty and diversity.
Thank you !
It asks me to log in. I guess I have to create an account to do the survey?
Thanks for pointing out the login problem, Evelyn. We have fixed the technical glitch and the survey should load correctly now.
I first traveled out of the US in 1983 when I was a young and very naive 26, because I had been in love with the Beatles since 1965. True, by the time I reached England they had broken up, and Paul had married someone else, but even as a pre-teen that initial love made me want to know everything about England and Liverpool and everything I didn’t know that I needed and wanted to know. I pored over atlases and history books and Shakespeare, but once I realized how limited my knowledge was, how much there was and is to learn, there was no turning back.
On June 6, 1994, I called in sick to work so that my mother and I together could watch the TV coverage of the 50th anniversary of the D-Day invasion. Though my father died in 1978, I had heard many times the story of how he was in North Africa on June 6 of 1944, and when the invasion came, he and the American troops were rushed to Europe, how he went to Paris in time to see the Liberation, and to Belgium at the end of the Battle of the Bulge. I had been told of the things he saw, the things a young, nearly illiterate man from Nebraska would never have seen had it not been for the war… I wanted to honor that, and honor my mother’s memory of the homefront during WWII.
It was only after my mother died in 1998 that I went to Arromanches and saw the beaches and the American Cemetery, and sobbed over the crosses of the “Known But to God.” I wish that my mother might have been able to go with me… but by visiting and laying flowers at the grave of a soldier unknown to me, a teenage who by now should be a great-great-grandfather dandling babies on his knee (including the German youths who really had no choice when they were shot down at just 18), I felt that I was respecting them, and admiring the Europe that they saved and helped shape.
Now I travel with my husband, who had never been out of the USA until we met. I told him that I traveled and I intended to continue, with or without him. He says that travel has given him a much more informed view of how the USA is seen from abroad, and makes him a better world citizen. He’s much more able to appreciate diverse world cultures now that he’s talked with people from other countries on their turf, and been aware that he was now the foreigner who is regarded with some bemusement and slight apprehension…. not the other way around.
I consider myself incredibly fortunate that my parents drummed into us (my two brothers and I) the experiences of WWII, both from a soldier’s pint of view and from the life of stateside civilians. I think it was those stories, the viewpoint that these few years of the 20th century were the most important of the modern age, shaped my interest beyond the USA, and eventually led to my travel beyond our borders… Though I still hope that Paul McCartney will come to his senses and realize he missed out by passing me by.
I agree with Marc’s grand-dad. There are many places in Shasta county that lure me. When I visit all of them, maybe I will try France. On the other hand, I don’t like France.
I am always traveling, even when I am not ‘going’ anywhere. One can draw concentric rings of distance from ‘here’ and ‘self’ to plot a point at which one is no longer among familiar, nearness and call that a destination to travel to. Or, one can recognize that our own self is perhaps as arduously reachable and unknown as any star, our own ‘place’ as undiscovered and interesting as the island of Socotra in the Arabian Sea. Traveling is a state of submission to the senses, of receptive drinking it all in, without judgement or the restraint of wonder. It is an eagerness to walk through the myriad manifestations of fear and allow ourselves to expand with every question and experience. I travel to engorge my senses, to expand my perception of ‘what is’ and ‘what can be’, I travel to hear and pay homage to the ghosts of destruction and creation – natural and human induced.
Answering your questions: If I could travel in time I would go forward two thousand years right where I am to see what had become of the world. I would most like to watch great apes in the wild, from a remove to protect them. If I could attend one festival it would be the August Edinburgh Festival Fringe. An indulgent binge of wow, I think. Finally, the most over-rated tourist spot is for me…well I always find something interesting everywhere at the very least anthropologically.