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Food & Think

A heaping helping of food news, science and culture

Off the Road

The travel adventures of a nomad on the cheap


July 21, 2012

Great Books—and the Best Places to Read Them

About 10 years ago, while passing a hot afternoon on the deck of a tourist lodge in Belize, a friend on his way out to go bird-watching asked why on earth I had my nose buried in a book. “Here we are in the jungle of Belize,” he said. “There are jaguars in the woods, and crocodiles in the swamp, and grackles in the trees—and you’re reading a book?” I explained that reading while traveling—if done right—can serve as a sensory supplement to one’s surrounding environment, not necessarily a distraction, as he believed. I explained that many years from now, any mention of Dovea sailing memoir by Robin Graham—would sweep me right back to these Belizean tropical forests where I read the book, and the coral reefs off the coast, and the croc-filled lagoons, and the villages, sulking in the boggy Caribbean heat and odors of fermenting cashew apples and mangoes. And I was right. When I think of Dove, I go right back to Belize. Because reading a book charges up the mind with information and memories. These become entangled with the scents and flavors of reality, and rather than detract from an experience, a good book can enrich it. Never in the past 15 years have I left home for a week or more without a piece or two of literature, and below I list some of my favorite reads—and where best to read them.

Top Picks:

Night of the Grizzlies

Montana, Night of the Grizzlies. On August 13, 1967, two different grizzly bears in two different parts of Glacier National Park attacked and killed two unrelated young women in one of the most bizarre stories of modern wilderness tragedy. Night of the Grizzlies, by Jack Olsen, recounts the events that led to the attacks. He describes the tourist lodges and the bear-viewing balconies above the garbage dumps, where grizzlies regularly gather—growing accustomed all the while to humans. When the victims—both 19, for another coincidence—go on their respective overnight trips into the backcountry, butterflies begin fluttering in the reader’s stomach. Night falls, the campers go to sleep and their fates are sealed; the worst nightmare of the human psyche is about to become reality. The deadly maulings were the first bear attacks in Glacier National Park, and Olsen’s book acknowledges the inexplicable nature of the coincidences of that night, then delves into the uncertain future of bears, people and wilderness. NOTE: You might lose sleep in the backcountry after reading this one—but that snapping tree branch outside was probably just the wind. Probably.

Paris, Down and Out in Paris and London. Ernest Hemingway may have spent his days in Paris thoughtfully fingering his beard at sidewalk cafes and drinking the house wine, but George Orwell voluntarily dived into a life of grim poverty as he made a journalistic effort to understand the plight of Europe’s working classes. In Down and Out in Paris and London, Orwell describes short-term jobs in the Parisian restaurant circuit, weeks of unemployment, living in a pay-by-the-week hotel and selling his clothes to scrape up the rent. He lives franc to franc, describing the logistics of saving coins and managing free meals and dodging the landlady. In one especially dismal spell, Orwell and a friend named Boris, living together at the time, go three days without food. Following false rumors of job openings, they drag their feet throughout the city, growing weaker every hour. Orwell even goes fishing in the Seine in the hopes of landing something to fry in a pan. When the pair finally acquires a loaf of bread and a bottle of wine, they devour what must be among the most satisfying dinners ever eaten in Paris. Orwell eventually lands steady work, but not before learning how strangely liberating it is to hit rock-bottom, to own nothing in the world but the clothes you’re wearing and have no worries but finding a bite to eat. T. S. Eliot, an editor at Faber & Faber at the time, would later decline the manuscript offered by the young writer: “We did find [the book] of very great interest,” Eliot wrote, “but I regret to say that it does not appear to me possible as a publishing venture.”

Down and Out in Paris and London, by George Orwell.

Texas, Lonesome Dove. Author Larry McMurtry creates a lovable cast of characters in the cowboy era of Texas in this Pulitzer Prize winner of 1985. The year is 1876, and Gus and Call, a pair of retired Texas Rangers, now operate a cattle ranch by the Rio Grande and spend their days tracking rustlers and warring with bands of Comanche Indians. Just as the reader grows cozy with life on the farm, the prospect of joining a cross-continental cattle drive pulls Gus and Call from their idyllic home and on an adventure to Montana. Through dangerous encounters one after another, the men convince readers they’re invincible, but a tragedy ends the party, only one of the pair returns alive to Texas, and we remember that the American frontier is as brutal as it may be alluring.

Mediterranean Europe and the Middle East, The Innocents Abroad. In 1867, Mark Twain joined a group of wealthy Americans on a cruise ship bound for the Mediterranean—-and in one of his best-selling books he boldly makes a mockery of the most cherished sites and attractions of the Old World. No museum, ruin, impoverished village or biblical site is off-limits to Twain’s criticism. He ridicules, especially, the patriotic Italian guides who lead the group to famed statues and artifacts—such as a particularly dazzling sculpture of Christopher Columbus. “Well, what did he do?” they ask the tour guide (I’m paraphrasing), who had thought the Americans would be flabbergasted. “The great Christopher Colombo!” the guide stammers, incredulous. “He discover America!” “What? We’ve just come from there and we haven’t heard anything about him.” The Italian almost faints. And another hired guide shows them an Egyptian mummy, 3,000 years old. Twain and the boys stare in silence, stifling giggles for ten minutes, before one of them finally asks, “Is he, uh, dead?” Onward, in Greece, Twain sneaks into the Acropolis at night; in Turkey, he describes the “illustrious” stray dogs of Constantinople; in the Bible country, Twain mocks almost every artifact and scrap of cloth advertised as once belonging to Jesus—and only in the presence of the Egyptian sphinx is his teasing manner at last humbled. As he stares at one of the oldest creations of humankind, he likens the sight to how it must feel to finally encounter “the awful presence of God.” 

Somewhere on the tropical ocean, Men Against the Sea. The sequel to Mutiny on the Bounty, this novella describes the voyage of the 19 men set adrift by the Bounty’s mutineers. The sailors locate themselves via celestial tracking, set themselves on a course for East Timor, and row more than 3,000 miles across the open ocean with only one man lost—killed by the hostile natives of Tofua. Hunger weakens the men nearly to starvation, but a few mahi mahi, flying fish and fruits harvested from island trees barely keep the men alive. The reader feels their hunger pains and likewise grows queasy each time they must make a landing to find water, surfing their boat over tremendous breakers onto unfriendly shores, often astir with threatening people. The men observe strange hopping animals as big as a man in the vicinity of Australia, and beneath their boat the shapes of monsters appear as fleeting shadows—probably the fearsome estuarine crocodiles so infamous in Australian swamps today. NOTE: If you’re reading aboard a boat at sea or under a palm on a tropical atoll, the aforementioned Dove can stand in ably.

Dove, by Robin Lee Graham with Derek L.T. Gill

Other Recommendations:

Central America, The Mosquito Coast. In Paul Theroux’s novel about a brilliant but wayward man who transplants his family to the upstream wilderness of Nicaragua, protagonist Allie Fox builds a self-sufficient paradise—but in the metaphor of Conrad’s Heart of Darkness, the protagonist loses his mind, and the dream goes up in flames.

California, My Name Is Aram. From William Saroyan, this 1940 novel hashes out the comedy and drama of life in the farm country of the San Joaquin Valley, where the Saroyan family, from Armenia and still embracing customs of the home country, have set new roots.

Baja California, Log from the Sea of Cortez. John Steinbeck’s travelogue from the scientific collecting voyage he joined in 1940, aboard the Western Flyer, describes the rich Sea of Cortez and the shoreline of the Baja Peninsula. In 2004, several Stanford marine biologists re-enacted the voyage on a vessel almost identical to the original. En route, the scientists compared Steinbeck’s descriptions of a bountiful sea with the dwindling fish and invertebrate populations of the present.

Southeast Asia, Catfish and Mandala. In this travel memoir, Andrew Pham tells of his pilgrimage by bicycle from his home in the San Francisco Bay Area to the land of his roots, Vietnam. Here, Pham seeks out old friends and familiar places, but haven’t we all been warned never to go home again? Indeed, much of the world that Pham hopes to see again has vanished or transformed.

Finally, the brand-new guidebook Oregon Cycling Sojourner, by Ellee Thalheimer, provides local insight and tips helpful for anyone considering riding a bicycle through Oregon—and camping, dining out, drinking beer and even doing yoga along the way. The glossy paperback details eight routes through all regions of the state, covering 1,826 miles of highway, 12 breweries and 14 mountain passes. Those not wishing to have a tour route described down to the turns in the very road might read the book for pointers, take a few notes, then leave it behind and wend their own way.

Have any more book suggestions? Add any ideas to the comment box below, as this list continues next week.



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18 Comments »

  1. Listens to fish says:

    Brilliant writing. But what about A River Runs Through It? Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance? The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy? Newton’s Principia?

  2. Kathy says:

    Inferno by Dante Alighieri is the first part of his Divine Comedy which also includes Purgatorio and Paradiso.
    I read this book in my late teens and it provoked me into defining my own set of beliefs. This book is not for the casual reader because it takes you into the recesses of your deepest thoughts. I would recommend reading it if you are traveling through a wasteland or some other boring place, and your mind can be your substitute landscape.

  3. Lucy Johns says:

    Terrific reviews with a profound theme: that books enrich the passing through of wherever! I especially love *finding* the books where I’ve gone, unexpected, known to the bookseller but not to me. “Hole in the Sky” (William Kittredge) was waiting for me in Cedarville CA. The author grew up on a ranch in that part of the Great Basin now labeled SE Oregon. I was about to drive around there, an endless, beautiful, silent desert where my father trained before shipping out to land on the beach at Normandy. The author’s father was meaner, his life was hard, his love for the land radiates.

    In Banff for the first time, I found “Travels in Western North America 1784-1822,” David Thompson. From 14 until his death, Thompson explored, drew maps, and wrote of one of the great wildernesses on the planet. He discovered the mouth of the Mississippi River. His maps underlie the boundary between the US and Canada. He remarks on cross-dressing Indians by the Columbia River. A book find for the ages.

    I think “Lonesome Dove” *is* the Great American Novel. I read it before visting Texas. Once there, I made a pilgrimage to Fort Worth, spent an afternoon in the “old town,” imagining the huge herds and the heroic cowboys, eating food I never otherwise touch: hamburger. So this book drew me to a day I’d never have done without it.

    One more: “A Fringe of Leaves,” Patrick White. A proper Victorian lady is ship-wrecked, captured by Aborigines, becomes one. Australia is unknown to me but if I go, that book goes with me. Same for “The Fatal Shore,” a history of the continent by the art critic Robert Hughes. The writing enthralls.

    That’s it! Talk about unexpected moments… :-)

  4. CJM says:

    Prague, The Joke, by Milan Kundera. Visit the odd Museum of Communism and then read an incredibly introspective novel about life during and after the revolution.

  5. Susan Eubank says:

    The Arboretum Library Book Club, Reading the Western Landscape, at the Los Angeles County Arboretum & Botanic Garden has been exploring place based reading for a couple of years now. Here are the links to past and future selections giving a good array of ideas for more titles to let you soak in a landscape.

    http://www.arboretum.org/index.php/news/reading_the_western_landscape_previous_book_selections1/

    http://www.arboretum.org/index.php/news/reading_the_western_landscape_current

  6. How about O’Toole’s Confederacy of Dunces in New Orleans. Being in New Orleans helped me fully appreciate the weirdness of the protagonist Ignatius and to realize the lazy, sweaty setting. I enjoyed reading it between a Garden District park (Coliseum Square, located amidst dilapidated Victorian mansions), a French Quarter coffee house (Envie, which pridefully serves the best coffee in the city to a host of eccentric characters) and my job in the Business district down the street from the Lucky Dog HQ.

  7. Stephen says:

    Corfu. Gerald Durrell’s My Family and Other Animals.

  8. jrand says:

    One Hundred Years of Solitude while taking the slow bus to the colonial town of Ouro Preto in the Brazilian interior.

  9. Courtney says:

    Butcher’s Crossing (by John Williams) while camping in Rocky Mountain National Park.

  10. Martin says:

    This is the book through which I started to discover the US: John Steinbeck, “Travels with Charley in Search of America”.

  11. musafir says:

    Alexander Frater’s Chasing the Monsoon vividly describes India during the rainy season.

    Wilfred Thesiger’s classic, Arabian Sands

    Patrick Leigh Fermor’s A Time of Gifts, and Between the Woods and the Water are sure to provide many hours of pleasure to
    all those who think of, or have taken part in, long distance
    walking tours.

  12. Tom says:

    Serpico by Peter Maas takes me to Prague every time. I found an old copy in a youth hostel during a trip fifteen years ago and read it in cafes near the Charles Bridge. Perfect supplement (and contrast) to the beauty of old Europe.

  13. Terrie says:

    You’re so right about connecting a book with a trip. I read ‘She’s Come Undone’ by Wally Lamb during a week in a beachfront motel in South Florida – at least 15 years ago – and just seeing that book on a shelf transports me to the view of that beautiful aqua ocean from our second story window, crashing waves, sand, wind, palm trees and pelicans, and the deep pleasure of being in summer clothes in the warm sun when it was still snowing at home. Not that this essay was the place for it, but equally as important, to me, is good – preferably new-to-me – music, which, after listened to multiple times during the course of a trip, becomes the soundtrack for the memories.

  14. Emma Smith says:

    Can’t agree enough with the poster who mentioned Gerald Durrell and Corfu, Greece! Also A Room With a View for Italy–that book made me travel to Florence. And Steinbeck and the Salinas Valley and Monterey.

  15. Tyler says:

    The Old Man and the Sea on a train along the Adriatic Coast of Italy.

  16. Patty says:

    I read Melville’s “Moby Dick” on a trip to Massachusetts and Nantucket. Seeing the typical sea captains’ houses, and especially Nantucket’s fine Whaling Museum, greatly increased my understanding of the whaling trade and deepened my appreciation of the book. Although we did not have time for it on this trip, taking a whale-watching tour would also have added to this experience.

  17. richard spinner says:

    If I were to go “off the road”, I would bring along a copy of “On the Road”.

  18. What an interesting concept_”a vacation book”!I’m such a Bookaholic & always have some sort of printed material with me at all times.Never associated the vacation place with the book. However,I’m about to take an Amtrak train vacy from Texas to the Big Sur,California area for a Wine Tour.I love trains!I’m such a fan of Agatha Christie_especially Hercules Poirot in “Murder on The Orient Express”_so I purchased a hardcopy of the book for train ride reading..w/a bottle of Pinot Noir…”Perfection”!! And,I’ll read it again next year on my planned Orient Express Train ride from London to Venice….enjoyed your article.

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