December 21, 2009
The Stories Behind Forgotten Holiday Treats
Recipes, like songs and poems, are passed down from generation to generation. But some holiday recipes seems to have fallen through the cracks; they’re passed on through songs and poems, but have become a thing of holiday lore rather than practice.
The famous poem “The Night Before Christmas” makes reference to sugar plums: “The children were nestled all snug in their beds, While visions of sugar plums danc’d in their heads.” When reading this poem growing up, I always pictured some sort of fairy, most likely the influence of the Sugar Plum Fairy from the Nutcracker. Turns out, sugar plums are a type of Christmas sweet. (They’re also a specific type of small, sweet plum.) Use Real Butter has a recipe for sugar plums that calls for toasted almonds, dried apricots, honey and plenty of cinnamon. She concludes that the confection was named for its shape, not the specific ingredients. Miss Ginsu (who unfortunately has stopped blogging) posted a similar sugar plum recipe that called for dried figs and cocoa powder.
Another treat that lives on in song instead of practice is wassail from the Christmas Carol “Here We Come A-Wassailing.” Wassailing simply means caroling. In the Victorian era, beggars and orphans would go door to door singing and hoping to get a bite to eat or a drink. The name comes from the Middle English phrase wæs hæil, which means “be healthy.” Wassail is a drink made from ale or beer and spices, kind of like mulled wine. Other versions includes hard alcohol such as brandy or even rum. Most wassail recipes call for some kind of fruit, generally apples, which makes wassail remind me of a British version of sangria. Epicurious has a version made from sherry, brandy and plenty of spices. Chow‘s recipe includes cranberry juice, apple cider and an apple brandy.
Of course, perhaps the most famous Christmas food item that no one has ever eaten might be figgy pudding, known, of course, from “We Wish You A Merry Christmas.” Unlike the sugar plum, figgy pudding actually has figs in it. But the name still manages to be misleading as figgy pudding is more of a cake than a pudding. While it was popular from the 15th to the 19th centuries, figgy pudding’s long cooking time (at least a three-hour steam) and high saturated fat (most recipes include suet, a form of fat found near an animal’s kidneys) has curtailed its popularity in modern times. Good Housekeeping has a simplified recipe that uses boxed cake mix and bakes rather than steams the pudding. Dorie Greenspan, author of Baking: From My Home to Yours, presented her more traditional, steamed recipe on NPR.
If you’re feeling adventurous and in the Christmas Spirit, try one of these recipes. If not, at least you’ll know what figgy pudding is next time you hear “We Wish You A Merry Christmas.”

Sugar plum courtesy of kevandem/flickr
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Fie on Good Housekeeping! We only eat steamed pudding once a year so I say BRING ME SOME (REAL) FIGGY PUDDING!
Thanks for the fun post. Next year I might try making sugar plums; I’m candied out for this year, I think.
Thanks for the shout-out, Food & Think!
The thing I really love about homemade sugarplums is that they’re not cloyingly sweet the way a lot of holiday treats are.
Since they’re so chock-full of dried fruit and nuts, they actually remind me of some of the sports/nutrition bars out on the market these days. I’d bet a couple of sugarplums in the pocket would power some hard-core dashing through the snow.
Cheers, everyone!
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Actually, I made Figgy Pudding just the other day for a holiday party. It is quite easy to make. Esp if one has a crockpot for the tricky steaming part.
And a small note, it is absolutely like a pudding, and English steamed pudding. It is not like the cooked custard that Americans call pudding.
All these ancient holiday sweets are all fine and good, but how about the 1950′s vanilla ice cream snowballs with their green butter icing leaves, red candle, and covered in sweet coconut flakes?
The treat of lighting that one little red candle right on your own desert plate beats out any Christmas pudding no matter how much brandy you throw on it.