November 13, 2009
History According to Beer
On Saturday, I visited “Beer Planet,” as the Smithsonian Resident Associates invitingly titled their latest program at DC’s Brickskeller. Captained by Horst Dornbusch, a crew of about 100 boldly trekked through a global history of beer that featured 13 tastings.
Actually, I think the title was a bit overzealous. The tasting menu was divided into four categories: Germany, Belgium, British Isles, and North America (Maryland and Maine). Beer…Planet, you say? Well, I guess “Beers of the North Atlantic” doesn’t sound quite as cool.
Dornbusch, an engaging speaker who epitomizes the term “beer nerd,” attempted to cram a college course’s worth of world history into four hours. I groaned and settled in for a long ride when his first Powerpoint slide asked: “How long has homo sapiens been on this earth?” But somehow, we made it rather quickly through evolution, the dawn of civilization, the Sumerians, the Babylonians, and the Egyptians, all while still sipping our first beer, a gentle, malty ale called “Old Brown Dog” from New Hampshire’s Smuttynose Brewing Co. (Not clear what the connection was between the beer and the topic at that point; other than the word “old.”)
No one’s sure exactly when beer was invented—it was referenced as early as the 6th century B.C. in Sumeria—or how. Dornbusch’s personal theory, that beer was invented by accident during bread-making, goes something like this: One day, someone was making bread outdoors when their work was interrupted by a big rainstorm. They ran for shelter and forgot about the dough for a day or two, then came back to discover a soupy, fermenting liquid in the bowl. They tried it, got tipsy, and said, “hey, this is good.”
Eh, that seems like a bit of a stretch, but as I don’t have a better theory to offer, we’ll go with it. Dornbusch says brewing spread to Egypt and continued to grow until Cleopatra instated a beer tax (at this, a rumble of “booooo” went around the room—the tasting seemed to be taking effect) and declined drastically after Arab conquest of the region in the 7th century, since Islamic laws proscribe drinking alcohol.
But while beer’s popularity waned in the Middle East, it was gaining ground in northern Europe. People there somehow figured out brewing (perhaps via another soggy-bread epiphany) by at least 800 B.C., based on beer residues in a Celtic amphora found in modern Bavaria. Dornbusch says the Romans were the first to invent the modern brewing process—involving malting and mashing—based on the ruins of a 179 A.D. brewery discovered in a Roman settlement near what is now Regensburg, Germany.
For this portion of the tasting, we started with a Hefeweizen from Weihenstephan, which claims to be the world’s oldest continually operating brewery, founded in 1040 A.D. by Benedictine monks. I’ve been a fan of this beer since I lived in Germany a few years ago, so I was happy to taste it again; there’s a spicy, sweet quality to it reminiscent of banana bread. Then we moved onto a Jever Pilsener—crisp and refreshing, but unspectacular—and a Reissdorf Kölsch, a pleasant, light-bodied brew which Dornbusch compared to a British pale ale.
In the early years, German beer was flavored with whatever was available to cover up its rank taste in warmer months: herbs, bark, mushrooms, or even chicken blood and bile! In 1516, Bavarian Duke Wilhelm IV issued the now-famous edict restricting the ingredients of beer to barley, hops and water. For the past century this edict has been commonly referred to as the Reinheitsgebot, or “purity law,” which irks Dornbusch. (“Ninety-five percent of it was about price fixing; this was no ‘purity law!’” he told us, pointing out that it excludes wheat and even yeast, which hadn’t been discovered yet.)
Eventually we moved on to Belgium, whose more anti-authoritarian culture is reflected in its more inventive and eccentric beers. I was sure I’d find my favorite in this country, and I was right…sort of. The beer I liked best—a dark red ale called Ommegang—is named for a Belgian festival, inspired by Belgian Trappist ales and even made with Belgian yeast, but the brewery is actually in Cooperstown, New York. Ommegang’s spiced-fruit flavor reminded me of the “drunken fig preserves” I made a few months ago, and I imagine a bottle of it would disappear from my fridge even more quickly than those did! Same goes for the two true Belgians we tasted: Saison Dupont, a bottle-conditioned farmhouse ale with coriander and orange notes, and Liefmans Kriek, a cherry lambic that tastes like fruitcake (in a good way).
In Great Britain, archaeological evidence suggests that fermented beverages date back to Neolithic times, and brewing became an industry during the Roman occupation. Ale was drunk widely in medieval Britain (hey, it was safer than water), and hops had become part of the brewing process by the 16th century.
Although not as exciting as the Belgians, the two British ales we tasted (Fuller’s ESB, and Boddington’s Mild) were highly drinkable, and the O’Hara’s Irish Stout from Carlow Brewing was every bit as good as Guinness, my first love in terms of beer.
Finally, we landed (tipsily) in North America, where we tried two brews from nearby Maryland: Flying Dog Double Dog, an “insanely hopped” IPA which I found too bitter too drink, and Clipper City’s Great Pumpkin Imperial Pumpkin Ale, which tasted like, well, pumpkin pie that someone spilled beer on. The real star of the show was the Maine-brewed Allagash Curieux Tripel Ale, which had hints of coconut, bourbon and vanilla in it after aging for two months in Jim Beam barrels.
If you could plot a trip to your own “Beer Planet,” what countries would your tastebuds pull you toward?
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To be honest, it sounds a bit disappointing and depressingly mainstream.
For example, there is a notable lack of Dogfish Head “ancient ales” that are specifically historically derived.
The British ales you drank were also rather boring, pall examples of the true thing.
I must agree with Jeff.
I am at least glad you enjoyed the barrel aged Allagash. Barrel aged beers are becoming more and more popular, as people are recognizing how complex and delicious they can be.
As an accompanyment I recommend reading “The Drawing of the Dark” by Tim Powers. He mixes history and English myth in a nicely readable fantasy. Specifically, the book’s thesis is that Suleiman’s invasion of Vienna in 1529 was to gain control of an ancient brewery, the source of the Dark of the title. I find it delightful that every one of the book’s checkable facts is accurate.
I’m greatly surprised that any presentation of beers would skip the Belgian Trappist ales. These are by many considered the best beers in the world, and the only dubbel that was represented was an inexpensive American copy of the style. Ommegang is nice for the price, but it in no way represents the complexities present in the dubbels, trippels, and strong darks of the true trappist style. Please try one of these!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trappist_beer
If anyone is interested n cooking with beer: http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=113747902
Frankly, I’m shocked at the amount of misinformation that is promulgated on the subject of beer. The following should help set the record straight:
“BEER: A beverage made with germinated grain, water, hops, and
sometimes other flavoring ingredients; fermentation is triggered by the addition of yeast. The enjoyment of beer goes back to the dawn of civilization, in Mesopotamia–not that modern beer drinkers would recognize the beverage brewed by the people of the Fertile Crescent, which resembled what we now know as Dijon mustard. The ancient Egyptians, too, were fond of beer, and the beers of the Nile region were famous for their potency: A batch served at a going-away party for the Hebrews left that venerable people wandering helplessly around a smallish patch of desert for some forty years.”
from “The Devil’s Food Dictionary: A Pioneering Culinary Reference Work Consisting Entirely of Lies” (Frogchart Press, 2008)
The other, I think much more plausible story for the origin of beer, is the “left for a day or two” idea, but applied to gruel, not bread. The fermentation works for almost every grain, (not just the specific, later-developing variety of high-gluten wheat needed for raised bread), is a much more direct process, and as one historian put it, a beer buzz is a “pretty powerful motivator for large scale agriculture.”
The bread-first theories mostly sprang up during the early 20th century, an era of high public disapproval of alcohol.
I’ll have to check out that book on the siege of Vienna. Another story we were told back when I was on a college tour of Austria and the Balkans, is that when the Turks lifted the siege, they left behind sack after sack of their coffee. Thus was born the Viennese passion for coffees.
I love how people love to leave comments. That is my comment.
I really love it when people who were not present at my presentation comment on what I said:
(a) Jeff thinks my beers were mainstream … Well, I was trying to present the actual beer culutre as it exists, which is, really, “mainstream.”
(b) SJ reminds me that “Barrel aged beers are becoming more and more popular.” I must take a note of that!
(c) WilliamB wants me to know that a book with a mix of history and English myth contains a thesis about Suleiman’s invasion of Vienna in 1529. British, eh?
(d) pd reminds me that I should have covered the Trappist Ale tradition (which I did) and that there is a Wikipedia article on Trappist Ale. I’ll take a note of that, too!
(e) Kevin wants everybody to know that you can cook with beer. No kidding!
(f) A “shocked” Barry Foy gives me a definition of BEER! Thanks buddy.
(g) lb’s “more plausible” theory of the origin of beer sounds very similar to mine!
(h) Mark McDoremott gets into the origin of Viennese coffee houses. I admit I left that out of my presentation! Sorry!
(i) Oat is aghast that people seem to leave comments merely for the sake of comments. Thanks, Oat. You are the only one who makes sense on this blog.
Cheers.
Horst Dornbusch
(The fellow who was actually at the Brick, bedcause he was the speaker!)
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Regarding comment number 4:
Ommegang Abbey was blind tasted against Chimay Red at the Great British Beer Fest a few years back. When one beer was announced to have won the vast majority of the votes, all assumed it was the Chimay. It wasn’t. A bit of a kerfluffle ensued, results were verified, and Ommegang Abbey had indeed carried the day.
My point is not to diminish Chimay. They make superb beers. But beer is not terroir-specific, nor to the best of my knowledge improved or diminished by association with God.
A dedicated and skilled group of brewers, working with imaginative recipes, the best ingredients, and well-developed and carefully implemented processes, can make fine beers anywhere in the world. And they do.
Chimay has a wonderful tradition, an inspiring history and a beautiful site. But those do not get up in the morning and make the beer. The brewers do that.
Cheers,
Larry Bennett, Brewery Ommegang
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